Hand-Forged · Built to Last

Dillan Foster Custom Knives

One-of-a-kind blades forged, ground, heat-treated and handled by hand in Greenacres, Washington. Hunters, chef's knives, Bowies, and everything in between, made for you.

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Shop1123 S Moen, Greenacres, WA 99016 Call or Text(509) 263-1263 Emaildillan@dillanknives.com

A Brief History of Knife Building

The knife is humanity's oldest tool, older than fire-making, writing or the wheel. Every blade made today carries millions of years of craft behind it.

~2.6 million years ago

Stone Flakes

Early humans struck sharp flakes off river stones. The first cutting tools, found at Gona in Ethiopia, were used to butcher game. Later, knappers shaped flint and volcanic obsidian into edges sharper than a modern razor.

~3300 BC

The Bronze Age

Smiths learned to smelt copper and alloy it with tin. Bronze could be cast into molds, hammered and resharpened, and for the first time a blade could be repaired instead of thrown away.

~1200 BC

Iron, Then Steel

Iron ore was everywhere, so iron blades spread fast. Smiths found that heating iron in charcoal soaked carbon into its surface and made steel, and that plunging hot steel into water made it far harder. That was the birth of quenching and heat treatment.

~300 BC – 1700s

Wootz & Damascus

Crucible "wootz" steel from India and Sri Lanka was traded across the Middle East and forged into the legendary watery-patterned Damascus blades. The exact recipe was lost by the 1700s and is still studied by metallurgists today.

200s – 1000s AD

Pattern Welding & the Seax

Celtic, Germanic and Viking smiths twisted and forge-welded layers of iron and steel together, which made blades both tough and beautiful. The single-edged seax was the everyday knife of the Anglo-Saxons and Norse.

900s AD onward

The Japanese Tradition

Japanese smiths smelted tamahagane steel in clay tatara furnaces, folded it many times to refine it, and coated blades in clay before quenching. This gave them a glass-hard edge, a springy spine and the wavy hamon line. Those methods still shape kitchen knives today.

1700s – 1800s

Sheffield & the Bowie

Sheffield, England became the cutlery capital of the world. In America, the 1827 Sandbar Fight made Jim Bowie famous, and the big clip-point "Bowie knife" became the iconic American blade of the frontier.

1913

Stainless Steel

Harry Brearley of Sheffield found that adding chromium to steel stopped it from rusting. Stainless steel changed kitchens and cutlery forever.

1970s

The Custom Knife Revival

The Knifemakers' Guild was founded in 1970. In 1973 bladesmith Bill Moran showed his Damascus knives and brought pattern-welded steel back to life. He went on to help found the American Bladesmith Society in 1976.

Today

Old Craft, New Steel

Modern makers combine hammer-and-anvil forging with belt grinders, precise heat-treat ovens and advanced powder-metal steels. Shows like Forged in Fire have inspired a whole new generation to light a forge, and every custom knife is still made one at a time by hand.

Anatomy of a Knife

Know the parts and you'll know exactly what to ask for in a custom build.

Tip / Point Belly Edge Spine Fuller Ricasso / Heel Guard / Bolster Pins Handle Scales Tang (inside) Pommel

Forge & Shop Gear for Knife Building

Everything you need to go from a bar of steel to a finished knife. Tap any picture to shop for it.

Shop links open an Amazon search, so you can compare brands and prices. The specialty suppliers above carry knife steel and handle material too.

From Fire to Finished Blade

Every custom knife goes through the same time-honored steps.

Design

Sketch the profile, choose the steel and handle material, and size it to your hand and what you'll use it for.

Forge

Heat the bar to orange-yellow and hammer it into shape on the anvil, drawing out the tip, setting the bevels and shaping the tang.

Normalize

Heat and air-cool the blade several times to refine the grain and relieve the stress left by hammering.

Rough Grind

Use the belt grinder to true up the profile and grind the bevels, leaving the edge about a dime thick before hardening.

Harden & Temper

Heat to critical temperature (non-magnetic) and quench in oil, then temper in an oven to trade a little hardness for toughness.

Finish Grind

Refine the bevels and hand-sand through finer grits for a satin, mirror or rustic forged finish.

Handle

Fit the guard, glue on the scales with epoxy and pins, then shape and polish the handle until it feels just right.

Sharpen

Hone a razor edge on the stones, strop it, and test it on paper. Then it's ready for a lifetime of use.

Reading the Fire

Before thermometers, smiths judged steel by its color. Here's the cheat sheet. Temperatures are approximate and best judged in dim light.

Forging Colors

Faint red~900°F. Too cold to forge.
Blood red~1,050°F
Cherry red~1,375°F. Near hardening temperature for many steels.
Bright cherry~1,500°F. Non-magnetic; ready to quench.
Orange~1,800°F. Good forging heat.
Yellow~2,000°F. Heavy forging.
White~2,400°F+. Forge-welding heat. Sparks mean the steel is burning.

Tempering Colors

Pale straw~400°F. Very hard; razors, chisels.
Dark straw~440°F. Kitchen and hunting knives.
Bronze~490°F. Tougher; choppers, axes.
Purple~530°F. Springy, impact tools.
Blue~570°F. Spring temper; spines and springs.
Gray~640°F+. Too soft for an edge.

Choose Your Steel

The steel decides how a knife holds an edge, resists rust and takes a beating. Here are popular choices.

SteelEdge HoldingToughnessRust ResistBest For

Order a Custom Knife

Tell Dillan what you have in mind. This form opens an email with your details already filled in, ready to send.

How It Works

1. Send your request.  2. Dillan calls or emails to talk through the design and price.  3. Your knife is forged, heat-treated and handled.  4. Pick it up at the shop or have it shipped.

Knife Care

Hand-wash and dry right away, never in the dishwasher. Wipe carbon steel with a thin coat of mineral oil; a gray patina is normal and protects it. Store it dry, out of the sheath. Hone often and you'll rarely need to sharpen.

Visit the Shop

Call ahead to visit the forge and see work in progress. Questions about knives, sharpening or getting started in bladesmithing are always welcome.

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